Katsuno

A friend of mine gifted me with a Groupon to Katsuno a while back, knowing how much I’d enjoyed it when I went the first time.  I was finally able to make the return journey – with the same friend – and I eagerly wanted to try a few things I’d missed the first time, along with some sashimi.  I’ve been craving fish like no other…

Last time, I’d been unable to try ankimo (monkfish liver) because they hadn’t had any in the dead of summer.  This time, the woman – who I am almost positive is the owner – seemed really excited when I asked if they had any (it’s not on the menu).  When she brought it out, I was pleasantly surprised that it was so much – I don’t know how big a single monkfish liver is, but this was quite a lot of liver.  I’d really enjoyed monkfish liver at I Love Sushi in Seattle, but as we dug in eagerly to this dish, I noted that this was simply monkfish liver, while in Seattle, I’d been able to enjoy it complemented by scallops and cucumber, with a miso reduction.  While this was still good, I couldn’t help but think blasphemously that it might be even better with some bread to spread it on, or some rice crackers – wasabi flavored, perhaps? – to counter the rich, creamy texture.  I liked it a lot, but it was was quite a large portion for two people to finish, especially given my friend’s less than love of all things offal.  I’ll know for next time to only ask if I have more people with us… or perhaps order a side of sushi rice to go with it 😉 

Given my craving for sashimi, my friend obliged and we ordered the sashimi platter for two ($58, seasonal price).  I was extremely pleased to see what they offered, though once again, I’m reminded that I know enough about my own preferences and tastes that I really should stop ordering platters and just order the different fish I like by the piece. 

Do you see that?

Hello, toro!  Fatty tuna belly is prized amongst sashimi lovers for its fatty, fatty, creamy texture, and this was no exception.  I’ve rarely seen this on a sashimi platter, and I have eaten them at a handful of upscale restaurants.  Hmmm.  This was wonderfully fresh, and I tried valiantly to not eat more than my share.  Yum!  (Also, I’ve hardly been able to find toro at non-upscale Japanese restaurants.  I think most smaller places find it cost-prohibitive to keep in stock, so they might have it on the menu but they won’t always have it available, as I’ve tried ordering it a few times.) 

I believe this was yellowtail in a ponzu sauce – really tasty mix. 

I think this was tilefish, slightly cooked on the outside, and very tasty.  The salmon is hiding behind it, which I also enjoyed a lot – salmon is one of my top 3 sashimi fish – and everything was super fresh. 

There was both ika (squid) and tako (octopus) on the platter, which I ate happily enough, though eventually the texture wears on me and I stop enjoying it.  This was the point where I realized I should just order the fish I like, as my friend didn’t like the tako all that much, but tolerated the ika.  Ah well – lessons learned, my food journey is never ending 🙂  Still, very fresh, and if you’ve never eaten raw octopus, each bite is like a burst of ocean water in your mouth – pleasantly briny and very tasty. 

There are also flavored sakes at Katsuno, though I didn’t partake that night. 

And here is the odd moment of the night: when we’d ordered, I’d asked for ankimo, the sashimi for two, and duck udon.  After the sashimi platter was cleared, we waited for our udon patiently.  No one rushed us with a check or bothered us, and we lingered over our green tea even as the place emptied and appeared to be readying to close.  Finally, I asked about our duck udon, and the owner apologized profusely that there must have been a mix-up and it wasn’t ordered.  I was ready to just say no worries, pay the bill and leave – it wasn’t that big of a deal and I thought the kitchen was closed – but she insisted that it was fine and that it would be out in no time.  I thought that was really awesome of her, and it really took hardly any time to bring out.  I am still fairly certain that the kitchen WAS closed or near to it at that point!  I wouldn’t have starved if we’d skipped it, honest. 

Unfortunately, it might have been better if we did skip it – and I’m going to blame this small inconsistency on the kitchen being near to closing – the broth was overwhelmingly salty, and I adore salt.  The udon itself was bordering on overcooked, and the duck was definitely cooked too far into ‘well done’ territory.  It still satisfied my desire for udon, but it was not a good dish.  Since I’ve had the duck soba at Katsuno before where the broth was perfectly fine, not too salty, and the noodles were cooked perfectly (yes, different noodles, but soba cooks much quicker than udon), I am going to completely hang this failure on the dish being an afterthought.  Not a big deal at all, because it certainly doesn’t prevent me from wanting to return. 

Yvo says: Katsuno remains high on my list of best Japanese restaurants in my neighborhood.  Though it’s a bit of a walk from my apartment, in nice weather it will be a pleasant walk to build up an appetite, and I definitely intend to return to Katsuno to try more items on the menu.  I think the prices are reasonable for authentic Japanese dishes, and the service is impecabble with great people and a nice neighborhood vibe to the place.  I’ll be sad when it becomes overrun with more people, but this is definitely one you shouldn’t miss. 
highly recommended