On a lightly rainy day, I headed over to Rue Cler to walk along the stalls and stalls of fruits, veggies, and restaurants to peer and poke. I wound up buying muscat grapes, which were good but pricy – and filled with seeds, some Zespri kiwi, and a lovely baguette from the famous bakery that’s there. After a bit of walking, I decided I needed sustenance and picked what looked like a not-very-crowded cafe. Unfortunately, French service being what it is, I had a very dismissive server who insisted I sit on the very outside because “you are only one, and these tables are for 3 and 4” – mm hmm. I wound up getting rained on, until he noticed my glares, and adjusted the awning to include me underneath it.
Le sigh.
One of the fun things I noticed in Paris was every cup of coffee – which, again, I ordered with my lunch – comes with a piece of chocolate or a cookie. This time was Valrhona – yum! Another great cup of coffee, despite the rather bland service.
Really great people watching.
A friend had suggested I order a croque madame somewhere, so I did: a huge slice of Poilane bread that was toasted, topped with bechamel, cheese, and a fried egg. I happily ate my way through this and the small salad alongside; unfortunately, the center of the egg was slightly too undercooked (ie, improperly cooked – raw white), so I left that part. The rest of it found its way into my stomach and kept me full for the rest of the day, really.
Crunchy, delicious bread topped with creamy, gooey cheese, and a runny yolk? Yes, please. Think of the best grilled cheese sandwich you’ve ever had, then elevate it with a runny egg and by making it open-faced. Eat it with a knife and fork.
You’re welcome. Thank you, France, for making even the simplest of things ever so slightly more elegant.
29 Rue Cler
Paris, FR
corinne says
Love the food in Paris so much, love anything Croque (madame or monsieur), as well. Coffee in Paris is so good. I am a little confused, why will no one serve it to you except at lunch? I never had this problem when I was in Paris. I would go to a little bar or cafe and have one while standing at the counter.
Feisty Foodie says
I think I miscommunicated what I meant – I had trouble finding places that served it at the counter or to go, as opposed to having to sit down to have coffee. I frequently was in more of a rush than that in the mornings so I’d opt to just have one with lunch instead 🙂
Janine says
Aren’t you glad you don’t have to tip in France? I would have a hard time even justifying 10% for some of the service my family and friends have received. And I HATE not to tip.
I could nom,nom,nom the heck out of that yummy sandwich. You had me at bechamel. OMGosh.
I could actually enjoy coffee if every cup I got came with chocolate or bread. 🙂
I am loving the Paris posts. 🙂 Love and hugs!
Feisty Foodie says
I still tipped, mostly just rounded up – I just feel weird if I don’t, even though they’re paid living wages and the service was just awful. I wonder if their wages were based on service, if they’d provide better service…?
Wait till you see what Friday’s cuppa joe comes with 🙂
Evan creem says
I had a very difficult time in Paris. First of all, it was very difficult to communicate. I wouldn’t say that the people are rude…they just don’t care to try to speak English. I can’t say I blame them for that. Eating out was tough. I found myself going to their chinatown a lot because I find Asian cultures a bit dismissive in any language and I just point at stuff here in NYC when ordering…so it felt like home.
It looks like you had a nice experience though. I guess the hardest for me was that everyone I spoke with would tell you the places you went weren’t the best but then wouldn’t tell you where they liked to go. I remember I asked one young couple where a really good place to get a few glasses of wine would be. They said “This is Paris…Go anywhere!” I mean…come on.
To some up, I liked Paris. Thought the food was great. Mayyybe I’ll go back. Just interesting to read stories about it from someone I respect as a food writer for a few years.
Feisty Foodie says
Hm, really? I’m sorry to hear that you had a difficult time in Paris, but I found that the people with whom I spoke French became very impatient and would just speak in English with me when it became clear that I didn’t fully understand what they were saying, instead of repeating themselves more slowly (which I probably would have understood).
That is bizarre though, I did have a pretty enjoyable time. Okay, that’s putting it mildly – I had a phenomenal time and can’t wait to go back 🙂
Evan Creem says
Yeah, the communication barrier was tough. Maybe if I hadn’t started in Amsterdam where everyone is so friendly and speaks English well, I probably wouldn’t have had such a difficult time in Paris. That being said, it was my first trip to Europe in general. I will definitely go back to Paris. Probably with a partner in crime though so at least I have someone to talk to.
Don’t get me wrong. People weren’t mean…they just didn’t really want to speak to you in English and I only know how to say “Je suis desole. Je ne parle pas Francais. Parlez vouz Anglais? Sil vous plait.” haha. 🙂 So I was alone alot. Literally and mentally alone. Amsterdam felt like I belonged more but their food was terrible. The french food I had was amazing though. Le sigh. Looks like I must return. 😛
Anyway, your writing is tops as always. 🙂 Happy New Year! Yay, food content!
Feisty Foodie says
Happy new year… more content coming! That’s kind of funny, since I would try to speak French and if I was a little slow to come up with the words (it’s not yet natural for me to think in French), people got impatient and would respond in English. Which frustrated me since I was trying to practice my French.
That said, those were all servers/service industry people. When it came to personal interactions (which was literally one person), he gave me all the time in the world and conversation was a little easier though I still had trouble with some words. But that was good, now that I think about it.
Feisty Foodie says
I hope your return experience is better! I’m planning a return for later this year 🙂