Montovani, Ormond Beach

Hanging out with Ma in Florida means cooking in her condo kitchen and dusting off the grill for the cooking of cow, like any beach vacation ought to include. But hey, it’s also vacation — I’d like to relax sometimes, too, and let others prepare our dinner. I arrived at the airport Thursday evening, and Ma decided that instead of cooking, we could try a new Italian place that had only recently opened in the area.

About a mile up Ocean Shore Boulevard from Ma’s condo lies Montovani, this little mom & pop Italian restaurant.

It looks like pretty much every other small Italian joint on the side of the road, both inside and out: simple brick building, cozy interior of basic tables and chairs, granted the tablecloths are a simple white and not checkered, but otherwise, I’ve been in places like this all my life. We arrived well after the dinner rush, which in this town is around 5:00, given the average age.

After a long day of flying and driving (and sort of wrecking my back in the process), why not a glass of the house Montepulciano? Ridiculously inexpensive, and really hit the spot, to boot, served in a simple glass, no fussiness, just something to drink with dinner. The wine list was very simple, with one inexpensive bottle per style, several reds, several whites.

Mom opted for hot tea, her preferred method for winding down.

The friendly waitress, related to if not actually one of the owners, was friendly and helpful, and took my questions in stride. As the place was nearly empty (it was after 8:00), we received nearly her undivided attention, and a bread basket of a half loaf of soft, warm Italian bread arrived shortly after we placed our order.

Dinners come with a side salad, and Mom chose the normal one, with bleu cheese dressing on the side. Crisp, fresh vegetables expected and received.

I went for the Caesar, which came as expected as well. No one ever seems to anchovy the Caesar anymore; pity. But it was crisp, and the dressing creamy and rich, so I happily enjoyed this with a hunk of bread in preparation for the appetizer.

Oh, glorious bruschetta. About the size of a sub/hoagie roll, brushed with garlic butter, slathered with pesto, topped with tomato and shredded mozzarella, and baked. So lovely.

The entire surface of the bread is just covered in pesto, and, as you can probably figure out, the tomatoes and mozzarella, coupled with the garlic’s tang… delicious heaven. I secretly rejoiced when Ma let me have more than half of this, so that she could finish her pasta.

Ma selected the garden pasta, overflowing with vegetables: tomato, various green herbs, garlic, and mushrooms, in a rich buttery sauce. I think this dish pretty much sums up my dear mother’s tastes: tasty, vibrant vegatables, high-quality, simple Italian comfort food, and lots of butter. Needless to say, she praised this dish as she happily ate nearly every bite.

I decided on the Chicken Al Vino Bianco — yes, chicken in a white-wine sauce. Of course, (as I asked about later), the sauce was enriched by a heavy hand with the garlic and butter.

So thick and rich, overflowing with garlicky goodness, the chicken soft and juicy, the light breading adding a little flavor and salt but by no means trying to take center stage… so welcoming. The pasta was on the al dente side, done perfectly well, and of course did not distract me from the task at hand, which was devouring this slab of chicken breast.

I mean, just look at this! The perfect vehicle for the sauce, the chicken was tender and picked up that sauce wonderfully. What little I managed to miss was soaked up by my pasta and more Italian bread.

Apparently our effusive praise did not fall on deaf ears, as the chef, apron and all, came out to talk to us after our meal, and we of course relayed our appreciation of the meal to him. The menu isn’t huge, which I think contributes to Montovani’s ability to execute well — it’s not rocket science, the simple dishes available, but it does take a lot of care to make sure the comfort food you might serve to your family is delivered to the paying customer at least as well. He graciously hung out for a few minutes, as he wasn’t busy by that point, and we were happy to hear that he gets a lot of his produce fresh daily from a local farm whose owner came in to eat a while back and struck a deal with the restaurant. Heck, if you can help the community and still deliver a great meal, everyone wins!

The bill? All the above, including two glasses of wine, came to about $40 before tip. Unbelievable. I love the restaurant prices away from home. Ma’s in Ormond Beach a month each year, and I already plan to take her back in 2012. I know she doesn’t tire of visiting, and now I won’t, either.

Montovani
1064 Ocean Shore Blvd.
Ormond Beach, Florida
(386) 441-1445