The Feisty Foodie Family was invited to attend a press preview of the church-turned-nightclub-turned-mini-mall, the Limelight, conveniently located in the heart of Manhattan’s big box stores along Sixth Avenue. The main attraction opens February 1, and naturally proved to be the big draw on this icy, bitterly-cold evening. Grimaldi’s Pizzeria, a staple under the Brooklyn Bridge for, well, forever, is known for killer old-school, thin-crust pizza, and somehow they were convinced to bring that pizza to a more convenient location for Manhattanites, though I doubt the wait times will be any shorter.
As they are not yet open, we were not allowed to take pictures of the interior. Ignoring the apostrophe abuse, peeks through the door yielded a pretty standard pizzeria setup: blonde wood, red-and-white checked table cloths, bright lights. Various wait staff brought small slices out on trays at irregular intervals for the masses to enjoy.
Eventually I snagged a slice of the vaunted Grimaldi’s pizza, alongside that guy from Midtown Lunch. While there’s no way the coal oven of the original Grimaldi’s could be replicated in Flatiron, who knows? Maybe they could perform at the level of the original.
I’ll state for the record that I’ve never managed to successfully wait in line at the Brooklyn location, so I can’t compare. But on its own? You can see the lovely char on this pie, and this slice held up in other ways, too. The crust had that balance of crispy exterior and slightly chewy, but not mushy, sauce containment vehicle. The tomatoes were my favorite part; it’s a shame to call this sauce, as the big chunks of crushed tomatoes had a vibrancy and explosion of flavor I’ve yet to have in New York, save perhaps John’s. The mozzarella was better than average, but it wouldn’t stand apart from most high-quality pie joints.
I would have been much happier had the slices had more than an afterthought of fresh basil leaves, but that’s a minor quibble that I’d expect won’t exist when people are paying for pie.
While we waited our turn, I glanced around the area where Grimaldi’s was located. It’s a sweet shop, with a Cupcake Stop and other sweets. Mari’s is sure to generate some sales of baked treats off the line to get into Grimaldi’s, especially if…
… this bell jar stays front and center. Yep. Bacon-flavored brownies, “Limit 6”. I almost convinced myself to take the plunge. Next time, next time.
Slice two arrived a while later, after wandering around the upstairs level looking at the various shops, most of which are not food and beverage related. I think the photo above captures the thinness of the crust; even the edge is less raised than normal. This slice was quite similar to the first — hooray consistency! — except I think the pies were being rushed out more, as it seemed the early pizza took seemingly forever to make its way from the hidden kitchen.
The char convinced me the pizza didn’t get enough lovin’ in the oven. Still delicious, but far less carbon in every bite.
Upstairs, Cana, the wine bar, served complimentary glasses of a middling Sonoma cabernet, a prosecco, and a chardonnay, in plastic cups — hey, it’s free — along with some hors d’oeuvres, for the first hour of the press event.
Nice hors d’oeuvres at that. This was a veal tonno, crispy bread, caper-y spread between. A lovely little bite, but of course the place was swamped with press folk and so these went quickly.
The space is ridiculously twisty and turny, with staircases that lead nowhere, dead corners, and hidden areas all over. Several such dead ends yield lovely food-related shops, such as a Ruby et Violette/Indulgent Baker on the upper level (excellent baked goods for all!), and in a more conventional space, Petrossian has opened another storefront on the first level.
In the back of the main floor, past the giant Nerds display at the candy shop, there’s a mini-Eataly, mini-Grand Central Market, whatever you want to call it, but it features a coffee kiosk where you grind your choice of beans for your morning coffee, a rather expensive Fromagerie next to that, and…
… meats galore at the Charcuterie. Together with fresh bread, I could see coming here and buying sandwich components for a week’s worth of sandwiches at once — high quality meats and cheeses and bread, and with any luck the customers will decide the prices are worth it.
And of course the mall wouldn’t be complete without an ice cream shop tucked away behind the meat counter.
There are plenty of other options in the mall, from home furnishings to fine women’s fashion. I can’t help but think the place is going to be dead save Grimaldi’s, but with any luck these small specialized bake shops and sweet shops and specialized food purveyors will carve out niches for themselves. I’ll be back to enjoy a few treats before long.
Grimaldi’s Pizzeria
Inside the Limelight Marketplace
656 6th Avenue, at 20th Street
212-359-5523
Please note that the food and drink were courtesy of Limelight Mall and their PR. I received no monetary compensation for this review, nor was I obliged in any way to post about the food and drink, positively or otherwise. This is my own opinion and I feel it was unbiased; you are free to take from this what you will.
Ada says
I love Limelight Market. It’s such a hidden treasure that most people don’t know about.
BeerBoor says
Don’t know how hidden you can be shaped like a church and situated on a major shopping thoroughfare, but rest assured that with Grimaldi’s opening today, it won’t be considered hidden in any sense of the word any longer.
sarah says
Ruby et Violette has some TRULY sensational cookies! the root beer cookie is especially amazing!
T.C. says
Waiting in line for Grimaldi’s in Brooklyn is crazy. Only done it once on day-off and still packed. I really liked the pie though.
The Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory nearby is also a worthy visit.
Grimaldi’s at Douglaston didn’t really do it for me tho. Not sure Limelight will either but wouldn’t mind going if it isn’t insane lines.
LKPNYC says
Limelight has some interesting stuff, but I always feel a little claustrophobic in there. Grimaldi’s in BK is worth visiting at least once, along the requisite amble over to Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory!
John Wozniak says
So many don’t realize that you can order a pie from Grimaldi’s Brooklyn for pickup and since the pies cook super fast in that ultra hot coal oven, it is ready, even with a crazy line outside, in about 10 minutes. You can just walk right past everyone in line (no matter how long it is) and go in and get your pie. Eating on premise is nothing special — it’s noisy and cramped. Problem solved :)! When the weather is better, Brooklyn Bridge park is a nice place to take the pie and enjoy it.
BTW, the gelato place in the Limelight is really, really good. I am partial to the hazelnut flava.
kcijones001 says
grimaldis looks incredible.
BeerBoor says
Did you go into the Grimaldi’s at Limelight recently? Or are you just salivating over the prospect of eating there soon?