Frenasia

163-35 Cross Bay Blvd.
Howard Beach, NY 11414
(across from Staples)
(718) 322-7690

When my b. and I first learned of Frenasia soon to be opening (about a year ago), we were both excited.  Myself for the obvious reasons (good Japanese food is scarce in Howard Beach, although since then another, more inexpensive place has opened up that I appreciate greatly) and he for the possibility for a good Japanese place in the area since I’d long ago denied his favorite local place as terrible.

As it turns out, Frenasia is actually fusion style Japanese/Asian cuisine (hence the name), although there are also Thai, Vietnamese, and Chinese tones to some of the dishes.  We kept driving by to see if they were open, and when they finally opened, we ran over there for lunch.

I recall our first time walking in, the decor is beautifully done, although a bit over the top for a restaurant not only in Queens, but in one of the whitest neighborhoods you can find.  We thought that it wouldn’t last that long here, and we were disappointed by that: the prices were a bit high, and both he and I felt that the neighborhood people wouldn’t appreciate paying that much for Japanese food (though in the city, they may have had a chance).

My first time there, I recalled ordering a sashimi lunch special.  We were lucky enough to sit at one of the 5 or 6 tables along the back wall; they face directly over the water and have gorgeous views of the ducks going by, or, on a nice enough day, the boats (there’s also an outdoor bar that overlooks the water; they serve some special drinks as well).  I remember being in awe of how fresh the fish was, how slow the service was, and my b. adored their molten lava cake.

Since then, we’d gone back a few times, finally stopping about 6 months ago.  Each time we went, the experience got worse and worse until finally, we just said screw it.  Recently we’d both been hearing that it was much better than it had been, and we should go and give it another chance.

So we did.  Did we regret it?

We went for a late lunch this past Saturday, and the place was empty.  We sat at one of the tables along the back wall and enjoyed the view of the canal, and ordered from their lunch special menu; your choice from a list of 2 rolls was $8 or 3 rolls for $11.  This came with a soup or salad.

The salad was actually a pleasant surprise.  Normally I don’t like “mixed greens” because it looks like it came from my backyard.  But the dressing was pleasant, and there were a few sundried tomatoes on top, that I normally don’t like, but these were mellow enough without that sharp taste normally associated with sundried tomatoes.  There was also seaweed sprinkled on top, and underneath, the real treat: strips of mango and daikon.  Delicious!  So far I was very happy.

My b. adores gyoza and almost invariably must try it wherever he goes.  These had a very thin skin and were fried nicely, though perhaps not as crispy as we’d have preferred.  However- bonus points- there were no shrimp in here, as my b. hates it when gyoza comes and is filled with shrimp.  He doesn’t like shrimp.

My b. had gone with the 2 roll combo, since he’d ordered gyoza.  He chose eel cucumber and California roll, both of which he enjoyed.  Ironically, part of the reason he liked the California roll would prove to be why I didn’t like my rolls…

the avocado, which he doesn’t like, was super raw, and therefore super hard, making it super easy to remove with chopsticks.  Normally it’s very mushy, so he has trouble getting it out cleanly, but these popped right out.

Myself, I had gone with the 3 roll combo, opting for salmon avocado, eel with avocado AND cucumber (special request), and spicy white tuna.  Now, I’d asked the waiter if the spicy white tuna was spicy, and he’d said not that spicy, so I opted for it because I like white tuna a lot and hadn’t yet had it this way.  I don’t like spicy things that much.  I also opted to add cucumber to my eel because I like avocado, but it tends to the mushy side, and I like a crunch to contrast the softness of the eel.  These are all important things to note because first, the spicy white tuna was much spicier than even regular spicy tuna normally is.  I had to wait until last to eat these, and I was crying a little (I’m not THAT huge of a wuss, either) and just uncomfortably gulping water down.

As for the eel roll, it came with no cucumber whatsoever.  I wasn’t about to make a fuss over some cucumber (and have the sushi guy spit in my roll or worse, since I couldn’t see the sushi bar from where we sat), so I let it slide.  Anyway, the avocado was hard enough at this point that I just tried to pretend that was my contrasting texture, until I couldn’t take it anymore and removed all of the avocado from all of my rolls.  It was just unbearable, with a super green edge of taste to it.  Imagine my surprise when I find I’ve been charged extra for the cucumber that I didn’t get – I wouldn’t have minded if I’d actually gotten my cucumber, but I was duly annoyed by the lack of the cucumber in my roll, but the presence of the extra charge.  As it was 50c, I couldn’t complain comfortably (plus there was no evidence since I’d eaten my rolls already), though this distinct lack of attention to detail was noted.

Basically, I didn’t get anything as I ordered it.  Sure, the salmon avocado was salmon avocado, but the avocado was awful!

Time for dessert.  Perhaps they can redeem themselves?

My b. ordered his molten lava cake as usual, which he’d previously enjoyed greatly, and this time we were disappointed that the center wasn’t molten at all.  It’d been overcooked.  The sad look on b.’s face after he discovered this was so heartbreaking, I couldn’t bear to capture a shot of it.

At least dessert looked pretty.

Service was faster today than on any previous visit, although when we arrived, we were the only people there, and when we left, only two tables had come in since then (it was 2:30 or 3 when we got there, so it was pretty late for lunch and too early for dinner on a Saturday).

Yvo says: If you’re in the area- doubtfully you’d be unless you’re coming to visit me, in which case I’d suggest a cheaper place or come on, Italian food!- it’s worth a visit.  Supposedly they have specialty cocktails that are yummy… and when we were waiting for our dessert (hint: if you’re planning on ordering this dessert, order it when you sit down so they know, otherwise it takes forever to make, and then they overcook it) I saw the other tables getting served some really interesting (read: picture-worthy) dishes that I would go back to try.  I know I’ll be going back here sometime, eventually, since it’s so close by, and because it’s not bad food.  Sometimes an unripe avocado will totally throw your whole game- but as a good chef, you should know better than to serve crap like that!