StB – by now, you should recognize her as my partner-in-eating-crime – read about this place recently on NYCNosh and decided we should try it. Nothing new, except the restaurant… is in Staten Island. Like many other New Yorkers, I’ve only driven through it before, never stopping… so on Saturday night, we both gamely headed out to celebrate her recent promotion (congrats again dear, you deserve it!!!).
NYCNosh’s post assured us that Enoteca Maria was a 5 minute walk from the ferry. We weren’t sure because when we exited the ferry station, it felt like we were in another world, but thanks to the miracle of GPS and some quick thinking, indeed this little gem is only a few streets from the ferry, and well worth the trip. I almost hesitate to share since the place is not that large, and I don’t want it overrun before I can head here again to sample more…
One of the big draws for Enoteca Maria is that 6 (or more) authentic, real, from Italy! grandmothers come in and take turns cooking. Though they post the menu on their website – by 11 am for lunch and by 5 pm for dinner – you really are never sure what you’re going to get on the day you go. On the night we went, the Milanese nonna was cooking:
We were both mildly disappointed but excited at the same time – we’d hoped for the Sicilian nonna, whom NYC Nosh’s article had raved about, but we were excited to find out what was in store for us. We were greeted enthusiastically and happily by the hostess, who remembered StB from her unique name and reservation call the day before, and were promptly seated. The cozy restaurant seats no more than, I would stab in the dark, about 20 people, but didn’t feel crowded despite being filled to capacity when we left. We had a clear view into the open kitchen and were delighted with the exposed brick; debating what other city we felt we were in. I chose Baltimore; she chose DC. We settled on somewhere in between.
Our complimentary starters came: from the top left, chickpeas; potatoes and sausage; anchovies chopped finely; boccatini; black olives and fennel; foccacia. I loved all of these, despite not really being an olive person (I’m learning to appreciate, actually)- the anchovies spread onto the foccacia was yummy, and everything else was a nice little idea of what may yet come.
We opted to start with the antipasto platter, Italian meats, cheeses and olives. There was speck, braseola, soppresatta, prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, mini Roma tomatoes, green olives and black olives, along with Pecorino Romano and Parmagiano Reggiano. This was way more than enough for the two of us, though we were later glad to have ordered it since our main courses were protein-light and carb-heavy. Everything was yummy.
StB ordered the black tagliatelle with salmon and leeks. Her opinion can be found here. I tried a bite and found it to be super creamy, almost like an alfredo sauce, with the distinct flavor of salmon though I didn’t see any in my bite, which I thought was great.
I opted to get the spaghetti con bottarga when the menu told me this was spaghetti with garlic, oil and smoked grated caviar. I had to question how one could possibly grate caviar- wouldn’t it just burst? How do you even hold it? When I asked StB, she got really excited and told me it was a snack she used to have in Taiwan back in the days– that they take caviar/fish roe and bake it into chips, which in this case could then be grated. I was keen on trying something so unique, I’d never seen it on any menu nor even in a store (the cod roe chips of which she speaks). When the dish arrived, I was surprised to find it swimming in a pool of oil; though it turned out to be very tasty, I couldn’t help but think of my poor waistline as I consumed the spaghetti dripping with oil. The roe was a light background flavor, slightly crunchy, and went nicely with everything, though I decided this was more of a primi piatti or even a side dish than a main event pasta, as StB’s was.
One point to note: because of how rustic or rather, homey, I’d expected the place to be, and then it was just like a regular restaurant set up- I’d expected foolishly for the place to almost be out of someone’s kitchen and living room!- this could almost be passed over, but I did note that the rim of my water glass was chipped the tiniest bit, but enough to cause concern. As well, some of the dishes/bowls in our antipasti piatti were chipped. This causes concern for me if only because my mother, who once ran her own restaurant, has informed me that dishes that are chipped are meant to be thrown out immediately (as per DOH guidelines…) as they might attract bacteria and be a prime place for bacteria to foster and grow. I have no idea how accurate this is, because I know dishes in restaurants are generally ran through boiling water cycles, but I’m not going to argue with Feisty Mom!
Yvo says: I loved the rotating menu, the idea that you never know who you’re going to get, and that the dishes each nonna cooks are meant to showcase their regional home cooking. The super friendly service- who, as StB said, genuinely seemed to care if you were happy or not- was fantastic and I am definitely going back to sample more and more of the offerings. I can’t wait to see what’s next!
highly recommended; worth the trip to Staten Island by ferry (which for those who don’t know- it’s free both ways!)
Swan says
hey now, it wasn’t back in the days, I had it when I visited in 2004. I’m not that fobby. =P In fact, I was an “ugly American” and ate them like potato chips. I was a guest at someone’s house and ate 75% of the package. A package costs about $30 USD.
eastvillcritic says
your blogs are great! if you’re up for a little splurge, check out http://www.theorchardny.com/ the flatbreads are great and the yellowfin tuna tartar just melts in your mouth
Wee says
I’ve eaten here and I hated it. The service was horrible and the food was waaaayyy over priced, not to mention cold.
NEVER AGAIN.
SkippyMom says
Being married to an italian [who would think that red headed devil was ITALIAN? hee] I love the Nonna concept of cooking…and I could gorge on antipasta….YUMMY….[we call our grandmas Nonni and Biz – which Biz I think means “more” as in Great Grandma….;)
Glad to see a post – I have missed you 😀 – really glad you came by for a visit….
Hugs to you and StB – and her comment about eating the “chips”? Priceless…
struenz says
I have been living on Staten Isalnd for 36 years and have been to almost all the good Italian restaurants here. Enoteca Maria is simply the most authentic Italian restaurant outside of Italy. The food is wonderfully delicious, the staff are very attentive and the owners are extremely friendly. This is what Italian restaurants should be.
Allie says
Judging by the picture of the place (and as someone who lives in DC), I would agree with your friend — it looks more like Baltimore. It’s just not pretentious enough to be DC. 😉 Don’t get me wrong–I love DC–but Good Lord, even the dive bars are pretentious. 😉
I’m glad I stumbled onto your blogs! Am **really** enjoying learning about bento!